Lijiang and Shuhe, Yunnan Province

November 14th, 2012 by DC

I was in Lijiang for almost 2 weeks all up, hanging out and enjoying the cooler weather before heading to SE Asia! Here’s a blog about what I got up to..

I left Guilin on a 20 hour overnight train via Nanning to Kunming. Because it was a night train I didn’t get to see a lot of the countryside leaving Guilin. At one stage I did pass through a couple of cities that the train stopped at. They weren’t mentioned at all in the Lonely Planet, but I looked on Wikipedia (thanks to my 3G Kindle), and it turns out they have a population of over a million people! Shows how big this place is, and how concentrated the tourism really is!

I took a hard-sleeper this time. This has bunks 3 high, and is open compared to the soft-sleeper. In my group of 6 bunks (and most of the carriage) it was all full of families with little kids. Whilst this was cute during the evening it was far from fun when I woke at 3am to the screams of one ~4 year old screaming for his mother! No-one did anything about it though and left it screaming for a good 20-30 minutes!!!

I had a day to kill (about 8 hours) in Kunming, the biggest city in Yunnan Province. I just wandered around town for a while and managed to find somewhere to buy a map of Yunnan (which doesn’t have the Pinyin (roman) characters, but I get the gist and can transfer the names over from my other map).

Here are a couple of photos of Kunming railway station at dusk. Good to see that the Chinese build railway stations that are as impressive as the west!
Kunming Railway Station
Kunming Railway Station
Another sleeper train (only ~9 hours this time) took me to Lijiang, where I arrived at 6am, in the cold pre-dawn. This time the carriage was full of Chinese people in their 20s and 30s, and I slept really well!

I searched around for a while for the freight office so I could get my bicycle, but there wasn’t one. So I walked the 10km into town and my hostel, it was nice, and I got to see the sun come up.. Here are some people doing Tai Chi outside the train station (see- more big buildings!)..

Tai Chi in front of Lijiang Railway Station at sunrise

After checking into my hostel I set about finding my bike and bags. The receipt I had listed an address and armed with that and some other addresses from Google I set off to wander the town! After 2-3 hours of walking I couldn’t find it, so returned to the hostel. I asked the person on the front desk to phone the number on the receipt, and found out that for ¥20 ($NZ4) I could have it delivered to the hostel in 20 minutes! I wish I’d rung them before walking the town looking for it!

Here are some photos from walking the town that day..
At least they're honest at this restaurant!
There was a big line of this big dogs all chained up with the red boas on- presumably for sale
Lijiang Market with the mountain in the background
The next day I headed up to the Tiger Leaping Gorge, which you can read about here.

As mentioned in that post, I left my rather pricey headtorch at a guesthouse on the gorge. So while I waited in Lijiang hoping it would turn up, I explored the city taking some photos.
Bells..River in Lijiang
Lijiang street
Washing the veges
Dog meat shop!
Mountain
Lijiang street
Lijiang from above
Lijiang river
Lijiang main square

Towards the end of my stay there was a bit of a group of us at the hostel who hung out together for a few days. I really enjoyed it and it was a good break from the solitude of the trip, especially the next few weeks to come.
Here are some photos from one night when we went to a food market.
Walking into town
Main street of Lijiang
Food market in Lijiang

I love the guys face in the background:
Food market in Lijiang

Not bad for $NZ3 eh?!
Food market in Lijiang
Food market in Lijiang
Food market in Lijiang
Main street of Lijiang
Main street of Lijiang

The next day 6 of us took a minivan to the nearby village of Shuhe for a look. Unfortunately the minivan driver took us to the wrong entrance and we got charged an entrance fee! It was only $NZ8 but still.. Shuhe was a town on the Ancient Tea route from southern China to Tibet and on to India. I’m pretty much following this trail south towards Laos. It was a nice change from the old town in Lijiang whose narrow streets were packed with tourists.
Preparing cameras for the day
Shuhe Street
Shuhe Street
Alana and Naomi
James
If you don't want the dog to be let out how about you close the gate?!
Shuhe River

Possible wedding photos?
Someone in costume getting photographed
Alana, Naomi, James and Owen

A man doing some awesome etching, would love some of his work on my wall!
A guy doing some carving

3 pools- One for drinking, one for washing dishes, one for washing clothes..
3 pool well

Making shawls
Making a shawl

Sunflower seeds
Sunflower Seeds
I don't know if this mean's you not allowed to release your own captive animals here, or free the ones that are already captive?

Waterwheel
Waterwheel

Cool door-knobs!
Door detail

Looking over Shuhe from a temple.
View over Shuhe
View over Shuhe
View over Shuhe
At a temple above Shuhe
View over Shuhe
Shuhe Pond
Door detail
Group back in Lijiang

So that’s my time in Lijiang. I’ve left there now, but I’ll save that for another blog post!
I’ve got an album of photos of photos of dogs I’ve seen around Yunnan- something of a pet project you might say! He he he. Anyway, you can see it here.

And to wrap up, here’s a photo of my beard and new ($NZ4) cap! I reckon from certain angles it makes me look like Fidel Castro! :-D

Me!

Posted in China, Photos